Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Stormy Weather
Awning Jumping
When authorities knocked on the man’s door, they say he jumped out of his sixth floor window, landing on an awning and running from the scene. They say they soon found him with a broken ankle.Did this really happen? I know jumping out of windows onto awnings looks great in movies, but it always strikes me as less than believable that (a) there would conveniently happen to be an awning directly below your window on the occasion that you needed to jump out of it, (b) somebody would actually be confident enough in the awning to take the jump, (c) the awning would be strong enough not to let the jumper just tear through it but soft enough that that the person would survive the impact, and (d) there wouldn't be some kind of supporting frame of, say, metal or wood underneath the awning.
Friday, August 22, 2008
Francoise Mbango Etone is Even Awesomer than I Thought!
In addition to being a good anecdote about a determined woman persevering over the forces that conspired to hold her back, I like this story because it's a happy version of a more somber, generic story about the obstacles that confront talented people in corrupt environments. This story is easily recognizable to anyone who has spent time in Africa because it happens every day. I know a very successful local artisan who was recently almost put out of business because some local elites resented how much money he was making purely on his own ability. I have a hard working Nigerienne friend with a graduate degree from a US university who struggled to find a job here in Niamey where visiting Le Directeur at a hotel room wasn't part of the interview. These stories are a dime a dozen. The tragedy is not just that talented individuals are prevented at every opportunity from making the most of their abilities, it's also that countries like Cameroon and Niger desperately need the skills and efforts of the same people who are the biggest targets for this kind of exploitation.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
The Non-Main Events
Despite my expertise on the subject, I haven’t paid much attention to this year’s Olympics. I’ve followed the main stories a little bit—Michael Phelps and his eight gold medals, the Jamaicans’ dominance of the sprinting events—but I haven’t been especially drawn in. I don’t know if this says more about the Olympics, professional athletes, or my own curmudgeonly outlook, but I feel like it’s only a matter of time before either Phelps or the Jamaican track team is accused of doping. Anyway, what makes the Olympics interesting to me are the less anticipated stories that tend to occur away from the main events. Remember that swimmer from (I think) Central African Republic in the 2000 Olympics who had to swim a qualifying heat that was the longest distance he ever swam in his life?
Probably my favorite story from these games so far is Francoise Mbango Etone, the Cameroonian winner of the gold medal in the women’s triple jump. Unsponsored and self-coached, the 32-year-old worked her way back to the gold medal despite taking two years off since winning gold in the 2004 Olympics because she was injured and gave birth. But my favorite part was the moment after her first-place finish became official. She ran over to the stands to celebrate with her supporters (her family, I assume) and somebody handed her a Cameroonian flag. Instead of the usual track star routine of prancing around the stadium waving the flag or draping it over her shoulders, she did what virtually every African woman I’ve ever met would do when handed a colorful piece of fabric that size. She wrapped it around her waist like a pagne and went on with her business.
Friday, August 15, 2008
l'Amitié
The default hotel for PCVs in Assouindé was called Hotel l'Amitié (Friendship Hotel). They had little bungalows right on the beach that were pretty bare-bones but dirt cheap. They also had a big wooden deck, where if you could tolerate waiting several hours for your food, they served their specialty of pasta with a red, creamy, seafood sauce that I still think about six years later. Mosts nights there were bonfires and drumming on the beach. There was an older woman in the village who sold freshly made fruit juices. Next door to the hotel there was an Italian man with a pet chimpanzee who ran a little cafe where you could get good coffee or limoncello. If you wanted anything else, say, some bangui (palm wine) or coutoucou (local hard liquor), the guy who ran l'Amitié would get it for you.
I heard through the Peace Corps rumor mill that l'Amitié was burned down by locals not long after the war broke out. Its owners, like the men interviewed in the tourism story, were Burkinabé and would have made natural targets in the ethnic violence that was widespread in the early phase of the war.
Cote d'Ivoire is supposed to have presidential and legislative elections in November as part of the national reconciliation. The peace process has been characterized by a number of apparent breakthroughs that have ultimately failed to hold up, and it would be foolish for an outside observer to predict whether this time things will be any different. Nevertheless, I'm hopeful and optimistic that the US isn't the only country that will be changing direction in November.
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
No Accounting for Taste
Yesterday Blattman commented on the peculiar celebrity status of soft rock crooner Michael Bolton in the war torn African countries of Liberia and Uganda, noting also that in northern Uganda, "Bolton is easily eclipsed by Dolly Parton and Bette Midler."
Although I'm sure I've been forced to listen to my share of those three artists over the years, none of them would have been on my list of "noteworthy random Western singers you hear a lot of in Africa". Off the top of my head, my list would probably begin with Celine Dion, Lionel Richie (esp "stuck on you"), and the Scorpions (huge in Madagascar!), although I'm sure I'm neglecting some important ones here.
Then there's the curious phenomenon of this song, which also happens to be the current ring tone on my cell phone.
Friday, August 08, 2008
Good News for Coffee Drinkers (?)
- Hydration. They used to think that caffeinated drinks were diuretics (i.e. they make you pee) but this turns out only to be true when you consume caffeine at very high dosages (bigger than a Starbuck's 'grande').
- Heart disease. There's no enduring evidence showing a greater risk of heart attacks or abnormal heart rhythm among regular coffee drinkers. In fact, coffee may reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease.
- Blood pressure. No apparent association between coffee and high blood pressure, although cola apparently does contribute to high blood pressure.
- Cancer. Pancreatic or kidney cancer? "Little to no effect". Liver cancer? Coffee may lower your risk. Breast cancer? No connection.
- Bone loss. Kind of ambiguous results, but whatever negative effects coffee might have on calcium levels are more than made up for if you already consume the recommended amount of calcium in your diet.
- Weight loss. Coffee apparently speeds up your metabolism so you burn more calories, but long-term studies show either no connection between weight and coffee or greater weight gain among coffee drinkers. So you're not going to lose weight by drinking coffee, but I'd argue that if coffee drinking is the best weight loss plan you can come up with then you probably deserve to stay chubby.
- Exercise. Coffee apparently augments the benefits of aerobic and anaerobic exercise.
- Parkinson's disease. Coffee drinkers (but not decaf drinkers!) had 30 percent lower risk of Parkinson's disease in a recent review of studies.
- Type 2 diabetes. People who drink four to six cups of coffee per day (both regular and decaf) had a 28 percent lower risk of this kind of diabetes, according to another recent review.
- Mood and mental performance. Surprise! Coffee drinkers "report an improved sense of well-being, happiness, energy, alertness and sociability".
Really, that's pretty much the whole article. So please show me the "contradictions" and the studies that damn coffee as a potential killer that reportedly come out every month. Otherwise I'll just have to conclude that all that coffee I drink is pretty good for me.
Thursday, August 07, 2008
Olympic Medals, Social Mobility, and Poverty Reduction
Controversially, the paper contends that social mobility is the key to countries' success at the Olympics. Populations that are better informed and better connected to opportunities, in societies where information and access are widespread "tend to win a higher share of Olympic medals", they said.
It's probably natural to have some quibbles about the way somebody characterizes and reports on something you spent so much time on, and I'm not sure how I feel about getting hit with the "academic" tag, but the article is a pretty good summary of our paper. Those interested in taking a look at the paper itself may do so here.
Wednesday, August 06, 2008
Hell is an Airport in Africa
My trip back didn't exactly go smoothly. The itinerary had me flying from Washington to Dakar, Senegal, where I was scheduled to have a 9 hour layover before continuing on to Niamey (via Bamako, Mali). My flight out of Dakar was canceled when the airport workers in Niamey went on strike but they put me on the next flight, two days later. That second flight was overbooked (I'm assuming because of all the people who had been left stranded by the strike two days earlier) and I was one of the ones who got bumped, so they told me I'd have to wait for the next flight, three days later. The third time proved to be the charm and after a 5 hour delay I finally left Dakar on Monday evening, arriving at my house at 3 AM yesterday (Tuesday) morning. I spent most of the day yesterday back at the Niamey airport trying to get my bags out of customs but eventually concluded my arrival yesterday afternoon, about a week after leaving Washington.
As luck would have it, my friend Tim (Timmy, to a few of the Rest’s loyal readers, who previously contributed a few photos of a fish he ate in Uganda) recently took a job in Dakar and moved there about three weeks ago. So not only was I able to avoid taking a hotel room and trying to kill time for almost a week in a completely unfamiliar city, I also got to do a good amount of catching up with Tim, who I hadn’t seen in over a year and who I missed being able to see in Washington by just a few days. We explored his new neighborhood for Senegalese food, wrestled with the kids who live next door to him and got to know the rest of their family, spent a day at the beach, and revived a few ongoing arguments dating back to 2002. In the end, I felt much less like a stranded traveler than somebody who won an unexpected trip to visit Tim in Dakar for a few days.
Feel free to interpret this story as a little parable about how I experience life as a foreigner in Africa. Rarely do things work out as planned, or on schedule, but for every frustrating experience there seems to be more than enough serendipity to compensate.
Monday, June 30, 2008
In Transit
I watched 10,000 BC on the plane from Niamey to Paris. What an wretched movie. I sure hope I don't know anybody who paid good money to see that abomination in the theater. I shudder to thing of what piece of cinematic garbage is waiting for me on the next flight.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Disappointed in Obama
I understand that there are people out there actively trying to push the idea that Obama is a secret Muslim radical who, if elected, will enact Sharia law and try to destroy the United States from within. And I also understand that the number of Americans who draw little or no distinction between Islam and terrorism is unfortunately high. But Obama's response to this whisper campaign is both cowardly and stupid. Shunning public appearances that could be interpreted as supportive of Islam and labeling the word Muslim as a smear are tacit endorsements of anti-Muslim bigotry. It's cowardly because it's a transparent compromise on principle for the sake of political expediency.
And it's stupid because ultimately it's probably not very politically expedient either. I would imagine that the fraction of the American electorate who could be convinced that Obama is a Muslim is made up almost entirely of people who weren't going to vote for him anyway. More significantly, striking this defensive posture of denying the rumors but acquiescing to the bigotry behind them makes him look like a weak candidate. It makes him look like somebody who can be pushed around by the purveyors of this kind of crap. That, I would argue, is more likely to be politically damaging than a visit to a mosque would ever be.
Maybe I'm especially sensitive to this because the overwhelming majority of people I interact with on a daily basis are Muslims but I get tired of making excuses for this stuff. Even here in Niger, people are following this election in much greater detail than most Americans realize. It's not pleasant having to explain to Muslim friends why Obama has to have a website insisting that he's not Muslim, or why he can't be photographed with women wearing head scarves in the background.
John Cole has a good post on this as well.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Slice of Life
Anyway I came to the research station with a few other people this morning but the place is empty so we'll be leaving by noon. I predict that by the end of today I won't be able to find a single Nigerien who was counted for this census.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
How Quickly We Forget
Maybe so, but my first thought was of Bill Simmons's recent remark:
People can change, but not that much. Even Angelina Jolie. ... I don't care how many kids she has, how normal she seems and how much good she does, deep down, she's still the crazy woman who wore Billy Bob Thornton's blood around her neck a few years ago.
Reason to Hate CNN International #2: The Weather
CNNi fills a lot of airtime with a graphic that shows current conditions in a random smattering of 20 or so cities while some new age music plays in the background. I'm telling you, it's on so often I hear the music in my sleep. And it's next to useless! Great. I now know it's 25 degrees in Muscat. Now please show me again 5 minutes from now. (I consider myself pretty good with my world cities and I had to look that one up, but at least I know it's partly cloudy there with a chance of rain.) Unsurprisingly, Niamey never makes the cut. But even if they decided viewers in Niamey could also benefit from knowing current conditions and graciously added us to the rotation of cities, what are the odds that I'd be watching (or paying attention) on the occasion when Niamey's number comes up?
What you also get, slightly less frequency but still multiple times every hour, is the typical "weatherman/woman standing in front of the map" routine. I think they throw darts at a spinning globe once or twice a day when they feel like changing the map. This morning I got a nice rundown of conditions in the US (all temperatures in degrees Celsius, of course). Tomorrow I'm hoping for Australia.
Tuesday, June 03, 2008
African Fish Blogging
I don't think the photo really captures it, but this was a gigantic fish that some friends and I ate last weekend. If you define a "person-meal" as the amount one person eats for one meal, this fish was well over ten person-meals. It was stuffed full of vermicelli, potatoes, and vegetables, with all the bones removed. It was then baked in an oven for over an hour and eventually served on top of a heaping pile of fried rice (not shown). Definitely the best meal I've had since I've been here.
I tend to report all of my significant dining and gastronomic experiences to my friend Tim, who has much more refined tastes in these matters than I do. He appreciated my description of this meal, but felt that it probably didn't compare to the fish he ate in Uganda several months ago, shown below in "before and after" mode.
Update: I imagine there are a lot of these "memorable meal" photos floating around out there. Feel free to send some my way and I'll continue to post the good ones. I think I remember some quality food pictures from a certain evening at Chamas Brazilian Steakhouse in Durham last year.
Friday, May 30, 2008
Vendredi at Volume 5
On Flopping
But this reminds me of something I often think about when watching soccer. Although I’m far from being the most knowledgeable or loyal soccer fan, I have a healthy appreciation for the game and I enjoy watching it—especially the World Cup. Like a lot of Americans who only watch soccer on occasion and who didn’t grow up in a soccer-obsessed culture, I sometimes find it hard not to be put off by the degree to which flopping and pretending to be severely injured are just “part of the game”. Of course some individuals, teams, leagues and countries are guiltier of this than others (I’m looking at you, Italy) but as a rule I think it’s safe to say that flopping plays a bigger role in soccer than in any other major sport. Additionally, flopping has potentially greater consequences in soccer because a single goal resulting from a flop in the penalty area has a much greater effect on a match than, say, two erroneously awarded free throws has on a basketball game.
Not to put too much emphasis on the cultural significance of this, but sometimes this seems as plausible an explanation as any for why the US so stubbornly refuses to become a soccer loving country. It seems like a large part of being a celebrated athlete in the US is about being (or seeming) tough: playing through injury, never missing a game, jumping back up on your feet after getting knocked down. Most American sports fans find something undignified about stopping the game to roll around on the ground and cry out in pain for several minutes, only to return immediately to the game without so much as a limp, as happens routinely in soccer. Sure, you see some flopping in the NBA and some exaggeration in the NFL (those receivers are pretty good at drawing pass interference penalties), but nothing like the shrieking in pain, carried off the field on a stretcher, “I’ll never walk again”, routine that you see in pretty much every soccer match.
Rasheed Wallace nicely captures the sentiments of many an American sports fan:
"All that bull[expletive]-ass calls they had out there. With Mike [Callahan] and Kenny [Mauer] -- you've all seen that [expletive]," Wallace said. "You saw them calls. The cats are flopping all over the floor and they're calling that [expletive]. That [expletive] ain't basketball out there. It's all [expletive] entertainment. You all should know that [expletive]. It's all [expletive] entertainment."
That also reminds me that I’ve been meaning to read this book for about two years now.
Monday, May 26, 2008
Cry Me a River
Friday, May 23, 2008
Vendredi at Volume 5
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Dust and Rain
I was out running errands in town at about 6:30 and I saw a towering red cloud of dust bearing down on the city. People had told me that these big early season rains are often preceded by dust storms, but it was a much more dramatic event than I had expected. This giant, churning red wall just kept getting closer and closer, then within the space of about 30 seconds it went from full daylight to being dark enough that you couldn't drive without headlights (I was driving at the time). The wind whipped up and the dim light that remained was eerily red.
The rain came maybe 30 minutes later and didn't waste any time in exposing the places where my roof leaks, the biggest leak being, of course, directly above my TV, cable box, and DVD player.
My description here really doesn't do justice to how cool this dust storm was. I'll try and get some pictures next time it happens.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Reason to Hate CNN International #1: It's Everywhere and Unavoidable
For reasons I'll elaborate on in future posts, it truly is a terrible, terrible news source to be forced to depend on. But if English is your most comfortable language, you're living or traveling outside of the English speaking world, and you're the kind of person who can't go five minutes without wondering if there's been a coup d'état, cyclone, or terrorist attack somewhere, there is simply no way to avoid it. If you're a college student living abroad for the first time and CNN International is being pumped into your bedroom while the lurid details of the president's affair with his intern are being broadcast to the world, are you going to change the channel to watch somebody babble incomprehensibly in Swedish? If you're living in a small African village relying almost exclusively on a shortwave radio and the BBC World Service to tell you what's happening in the world and your employer puts you up for a few days in a hotel with a TV and only one English channel, would you have the willpower to avert your attention?
Well, me neither. And when I finally broke down last week and got a satellite TV connection in my house, it was entirely predictable that I'd be drawn back to my old nemesis. Did Obama pick up any more superdelegates? Is the Burmese junta going to allow foreigners to deliver aid to the cyclone victims? What's happening in the NBA playoffs? Only one way to find out...
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Guilty as Charged
Anyway, back to scouring the internet for videos of famous people exploding into fits of anger in front of the camera. But really, tomorrow I'm going to sit down, focus, and really get some things done!I'm here to tell you that it was none of these things. The root cause of my procrastination, in technical terms, is this: I'm lazy. Extremely lazy.
Don't judge, pal—you're lazy, too. It's why you procrastinate. When there's a difficult, disagreeable, or tedious chore that needs to get done, guess what? You don't want to do it. So you don't. Until you have to.
It's just that simple, my slothful friend. And guess what else? The trick to overcoming procrastination is even simpler. Ready? Here it is:
Get off your fat badonk and stop procrastinating. Right now. No, not after the Gilmore Girls rerun ends. Now now.
Will you do this? No. You will not. You will dabble at the crossword for a while. Later, you might get a yogurt. Eventually, you'll start reading pointless crap on the Internet. You see, you're doing it as we speak! Because: You are lazy.
Monday, May 12, 2008
May 12th
Wednesday, May 07, 2008
National Popular Vote
The Electoral College system creates two distinct problems. First, and most obviously, it allows for the possibility that the candidate receiving fewer overall votes can still technically win an election. This has happened 4 times in American history, in 1824, 1876, 1888, and 2000. The second and perhaps more pernicious problem with the Electoral College system is that it creates a situation in which the only votes that matter, from the perspective of candidates, are those in the few “battleground states” that could go either way. Candidates have little reason to campaign—and people little reason to vote—outside of those states.
The originators of the NPV effort found a way to effectively do away with the Electoral College without the nearly impossible task of changing the constitution. Simply put, the NPV campaign involves convincing states, one state at a time, to change their laws so that they cast their electoral votes for the winner of the national popular vote rather than the winner of the particular state.
Here’s a slightly longer way of putting it:
The Constitution gives states the power to decide how to allocate the electors who cast the vote for the president. The National Popular Vote is a campaign to get each state to pass a law entering into a binding agreement to award all their electors to the candidate who wins the national popular vote in all fifty states and Washington, D.C. This provision would only go into effect when states whose electoral votes total a majority of the Electoral College—currently, 270 votes—sign the compact. When that happens, whichever candidate wins the popular vote will automatically garner a majority of the electoral votes. While this arrangement is rather complex, it has the advantage of being fair and utterly nonpartisan—and could take effect as soon as enough large states agree to participate. If that happens, it would force public officials to represent a much broader segment of the populace out of electoral self-interest.That’s from a good piece in the Washington Monthly that explains in greater detail the problems with the current system and this new effort to “dump the Electoral College without changing the constitution”. The most consistent and eloquent advocate of NPV that I know of is Hendrik Hertzberg of the New Yorker, whose posts on the subject I always enjoy and recommend. Four states representing 50 electoral votes have already passed laws binding them to the NPV plan.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
But It's a Dry Heat
I suspect everybody who's lived in hot places has about 10,000 stories like this, but they never get old. If you pay any attention to the little weather sticker on the right side of this page, you will have noticed that it's pretty hot here these days. We're not yet in the hottest part of the hot season, but we're not too far off, either. Mercifully it seems to be a few degrees cooler here in Maradi where I've been for over 2 weeks than in Niamey.
Anyway, yesterday evening I left the compound where I'm staying at about 6:00 to go look for something to eat. The guard at the gate came out of his little patch of shade to open the gate for me and I waved to him on my way out. When I came back around 10:00 the same guard was bundled up in a fleece jacket, a knit hat, and gloves. To confirm my suspicion that the next ice age hadn't arrived during the previous three hours, I checked my little thermometer/alarm clock when I got back to my room: 94 degrees.
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Maradi Journal
Sunday, March 16. The drive from
Tuesday, March 18. This morning we met with a group of 20 potential enumerators. We’re expecting to end up with 12, but we expect some attrition and it’s probable that some of those who came won’t have the skills to be able to do what we want them to. The meeting started the typical two hours behind schedule, and we spent the whole day in a hot stuffy room reading through the 2 questionnaires and trying to clarify what information we are after, not as simple a task as it might seem. Abdoulaye, who’s run these kinds of trainings before, was invaluable.
Friday, February 29, 2008
Ivan the Terrible
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Earth Album
Good as New
The front-left of the car was where the impact was. If you look closely, you might notice that the entire front of the car is now a slighly different shade of red than the rest of the car because they had to paint the entire front section. The paint is the same color, it's just that it hasn't faded like the paint on the rest of the car.
Friday, February 22, 2008
Vendredi at Volume 5
Bush as PCV
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
The Latest on That Cyclone
Update: here's a more recent report. There's still not a while lot of information, but this detail jumped out at me because the island of Ste. Marie was directly off the coast from where I lived. On a clear day you can stand just outside of town and make out certain landmarks on the island:
On Sainte Marie, a 60km long island off Madagascar's northeast coast, which bore the brunt of the cyclone, "75 percent of the houses have been destroyed," Styvanley Soa said.
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Hold the Bacon, Please
The irritating habit I refer to isn't the right-wing tilt of this guy's perspective, it's the notion that there's an alternative set of "good ideas for development" that we're just not putting into practice. Yes, it's stupid of somebody like Sachs to argue that, essentially, we've figured out how to make development happen and the current challenge is merely mobilizing the resources to carry it out. It's equally stupid to argue that the solution to global poverty is for everybody to read a bit more Bacon and Hayek.
The unfortunate truth is that nobody has really figured out "development" or how to bring it about. The healthy, vibrant, wealth creating, poverty reducing economies of the world are the exceptions, not the rule.
Cyclone Ivan
If you asked me to take a map of Madagascar and point to the place I used to live, I'd have trouble getting any closer than the orange dot on this map representing the latest location of a massive tropical cyclone. In 2004, when I was living there, we had a cyclone that missed us by 100 km or so and it was a pretty frightening experience. Most houses are made of relatively flimsy local materials. The corrugated metal roofs on the nicer buildings are only held in place by a few nails, and when they blow off they basically become giant flying blades. The number of brick buildings is nowhere near enough to accommodate the local population. Flooding is also a serious problem, as the town is located on the coast at the mouth of a big river. What I really remember, though, is the noise. It was just hour after hour of this unrelenting groaning sound that was loud enough to make communication difficult and sleep impossible.
Monday, February 04, 2008
Two Tuaregs Walk Into a Bar...
In April, Niger authorities even plan to organise a "National Week of Ethnic Jokes" with radio programmes, conferences, joke competitions and cultural evenings.
Meanwhile, the article from which this detail was drawn strikes me as exceedingly stupid. The gist of it seems to be that in Niger people make a lot of ethnic jokes, but it's all in good fun and people don't mind. Except sometimes when they do.
I don't really know anything about the "centuries-old custom" of ethnic jokes in Niger, but it seem to me that the author is taking some liberties when s/he jumps to the pat conclusion that this tradition, "far from exacerbating ethnic tensions, actually has a calming effect on them." I think many Westerners, coming from a cultural context in which people are generally sensitive to such things, are struck by the relative bluntness with which people here comment on ethnicity, color, weight, wealth, religion, etc. But this is a fairly banal observation and I wouldn't draw too many specific conclusions from it.
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
I'm a Very Proud Brother
More Obamamania
Obama is frequently outstanding at giving speeches to large crowds. And that's a great skill for a president to have. Unfortunately, very few people, especially outside the early primary states, get to see Obama giving a speech.So in the interest of encouraging a few more people to watch Obama the Speaker in action, I'm posting a couple more of his recent speeches. This first one was his victory speech in South Carolina last weekend.
And for those of you who appreciate the Camelot nostalgia angle to the Obama campaign, be sure not to miss this (long) video of yesterday's endorsement of Obama by Ted Kennedy.