The Eagle Has Landed

I had hoped to get started on this blog a week or two ago, but it’s been hard to find the time. I’m writing this post on my first morning in Niamey, with the day quickly heating up and some rather loud drums and singing carrying over the wall of the compound where I’m staying (it's either a marriage or baptism, according to the guardian). I’m at the guest house of ICRISAT, one of several organizations involved in my project and the one I’ll be working most directly “under” during my time in Niger. Hopefully I’ll be out of here and into my own place within a week or so. I’ve been living out of bags for several weeks now, and although it feels great to have finally gotten to Niamey, I’m anxious to get somewhere I can unpack my stuff and finally feel like I’m done traveling for a while.

I won’t spend too much time summarizing the past few weeks of retreats, trainings, orientations, etc. I really enjoyed the time in Washington getting to know the CHC staff and the rest of my class of fellows, and I also managed to sneak in some quality time with friends from Bates and Duke. My time in Rome with Bioversity (one of the other organizations involved in my project) was also very positive, and it allowed me to meet a number of people who I think will be immensely valuable resources over the course of the next couple years. And really friendly people, too! I was invited to fancy lunches and dinners all week long and not allowed to pay for anything. One last chance to fatten up before the inevitable 15 pound weight drop.

The moment I stepped off the plane I felt good about being here. Although this is my first time in Niger, the experience felt very much as though I was “coming back”: back to the developing world, back to Africa, back to Muslim francophone West Africa. Everything from the initial blast of hot air to the ridiculous “customs” agent to the sights on the road between the airport and here (women effortlessly carrying huge loads on their heads, men wearing boubous, kids and animals running about every which way) made me feel excited to be back. The feeling was reassuring, because after being back in the States for a few years I had begun to wonder whether living in Africa would continue to offer the same excitement, enjoyment, and satisfaction that it did before. Do I really want to live and work in Africa, I asked myself, or does my goal of returning have more to do with foolishly trying to recapture an especially eventful and exciting period in my life? I suppose it’s too soon to really offer an answer to that question, but my initial impression is that my decision to come back was a good one.

After getting to the guest house last night, I took a nap and woke up to found myself hungry and a little bit stranded. I had come straight from the airport, so all my money was in euros and dollars (and still is). Nobody else is staying here, so the building was all dark and quiet. I wandered outside and the first people I could find were the guardians, to whom I explained my situation and asked what I should do. Within about 10 minutes someone had arrived to loan me money, and I went out on the street and bought some grilled chicken with onions and some bread. I had no place to eat, so I went back to hang out with the guardians, who were also just about to start eating their dinner. In no time the four of us had thrown everything together for a veritable feast of chicken, onions, bread, rice, sauce, Fantas and Cokes. A delicious and auspicious beginning to this new adventure.

I’ll try to post again soon with more details about the work I plan to be doing over the next couple years.